The Process

I started skiing before I could properly walk. I was blessed with the proximity of being so close to a ski hill growing up, that if you didn’t ski, you would be exiled from your town. This was good in the long run because I now know how to ski, how to plan a ski trip, how to ski all day without a break, and how to thoroughly enjoy the Process.

When I was a kid, I was lucky enough (although I didn’t know it then) to have a small condo in Lake Tahoe, and a stepdad, Don…


Some Days…

I’m not sure if it’s because I started surfing as an adult, or if it’s because I am naturally a bit cautious (my dad’s voice in my head saying, “Heather, use your brain, slow down, and come home in one piece!”), but some days when I surf, no matter how many days I have under my wetsuit, or how many times I’ve popped up at the same spot, on relatively the same wave, I simply can’t catch a wave to save my ass. My instincts break down and the skill set that I thought was solid, like riding…


Navigating

When I first started surfing, reading the waves was a crap shoot. I wasn’t sure if I was too far on the inside, too far outside, or in the right spot. And until I went to Sri Lanka and surfed with a very cool guide named Attah, I would always keep looking back until I decided to pop-up, which was a bad idea, because as the wave approaches and builds, it changes from a fat, slow body of water into what looks like a dragon’s mouth with the intention to devour me and my board whole. Looking back too…


Sweet Addiction

I’ve never been into drugs (Burning Man doesn’t count-it’s art)…they just don’t grab my attention, because from what I’ve seen they don’t let You run the show, they run You…far far away from anything that means anything. So, I’ve always stuck to my wine and the occasional slip when my husband talks me into an “edible” date night (always a big laugh later). But what I’ve realized, since Covid, and these horrid quarantine lockdowns is that I’ve developed an obsession, dare I say addiction that I just can’t kick. I’m now an affirmed addict to “surf time”. Surf…


Yes, I Talk to my Surfboard…and so do You!

If you say you don’t talk to your board, you lie. Most of the time your board is the only friend you have in the water, and sometimes your board gets pissed and whacks you on the head or leg or (and I’m still in awe about this one)-your fin gets stuck inside your sleeve and almost tears your muscles and veins apart, leaving you with an enormous bruise… I’m just saying. BUT when you are surfing, either solo or with your pals, no one cares about you, but your board…


Awakened by Waves

by Heather Edmiston Ernst

It’s 15 minutes before first light. I sit in my little Mini Cooper that I love, and will never sell despite his faults. My coffee is hot and the cars coming towards me on the PCH scare the hell out of me as I sit and stare at the blackness, a couple lonely cars asleep with their owners passed out at the wheel. Sunset Beach, between Santa Monica and Malibu is my favorite surf spot, my home. The waves are soft, well-shaped, and most of the time, inviting. …

Heather Edmiston Ernst

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